Tenerife To La-Gomera Ferry, Canary Islands

By Alexander Lees

The product of the explosive marriage of fire and water, the Canary Islands offer a range of both pelagic and land-based delights for the travelling naturalist. Here there is an opportunity to see some exciting endemics and the opportunity to see some pelagic birds and mammals that only just creep into European Waters, that is if you can truly regard islands off North Africa as European!

The archipelago has gained a reputation as one of the pre-eminent whale-watching locations in the Western Palearctic with thousands of sun-seekers parting with a few euros for the chance to see Short-finned Pilot Whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus) of which hundreds are present for much of the year. Although many of these enterprises are unregulated, recent efforts by the WDCS in drawing up protocols for safe observation will hopefully prevent any potential disturbance. The deep waters around the islands are also important staging areas for a number of other cetaceans - both temperate and sub-tropical dolphins (including the sort-after Atlantic Spotted [Stenella frontalis] and Fraser’s [Lagenodelphis hosei] Dolphins), various beaked whales and occasional rorquals (including Bryde’s Whale [Balaenoptera edeni]). I spent a week in January 2003 on a “holiday” with my girlfriend Lynsey Smith with the focus of the trip being on the endemic landbirds of which there are a range of distinctive taxa to see. Having found all the sort-after species including the spectacular Blue Chaffinch (Fringilla teydea), diminutive Canary Island’s Kinglet (Regulus teneriffae) and globally threatened White-tailed Pigeon (Columba junoniae), we decided to spend one day taking the ferry to Gomera and back.

Frasers Dolphin (photo, Indian Ocean, John Young)

We booked a place with the Trasmediterranea Company from Los Cristianos, in preference to the fast hydrofoil that also plies the same route and disembarked at 8.30 am. Without great expectations considering the time of year I was delighted to encounter a group of five Fraser’s Dolphins within minutes of leaving port. The Canaries are perhaps one of the best places in the world to encounter this little-known species that is widely distributed in North Atlantic warm temperate and sub-tropical waters.

Short-finned Pilot Whale (photo, Indian Ocean, John Young)


Minutes later we located a pod of seven Short-finned Pilot Whales, probably the most abundant cetacean in Canarian waters, typically logging at the surface. On reaching the deepest waters mid-channel we came across the first of three Little Shearwaters (Puffinus assimilis baroli), one of which gave prolonged views alongside the boat as it repeatedly circled and dip-fed. This species was to be the only procelariform encountered, although small numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters (Calonectris diomedea) are present all year and there must be at least a chance of finding both British (Hydrobates pelagics) and Madeiran Storm-Petrels (Oceanodroma castro) of which the latter’s temporary segregated “cold season” population is around in winter.

In the summer and autumn the same crossing is productive for Bulwer’s Petrels (Bulweria bulwerii), Great (Puffinus gravis) and Sooty Shearwaters (P. griseus) and with a lot luck a pterodroma or Red-billed Tropicbird (Phaethon aethereus). Arriving at the harbour in San Sebastian we were greeted by Sandwich Terns (Sterna sandvicensis) and the ubiquitous Atlantic Yellow-legged Gulls (Larus michahellis atlantis), although the cliffs here are also reliable for Barbary Falcon (Falco pelegrinoides) if you fail to see this species on Tenerife. The crossing is only a short one taking perhaps an hour and a half at most, but on a clear day it delivers spectacular views of Mount Teide, the dormant volcano which created Tenerife and at 3718 metres the highest mountain in Spain. The return journey produced much the same selection of species with the exception of the dolphins and I must admit to have been a little disappointed and certainly keen on returning at a more productive season, but in any case even a winter visit has the potential to turn up something special.


Tenerife (photo, Alexander Lees)


Los Gigantes (photo, Alexander Lees)
Thanks to Alexander Lees for supplying this article.

Posted 14th February 2004